Which Filter to buy for your lens.

Put filter into the Ebay search and narrow down to photographic and you come up with hundreds of offers. Buying secondhand can save you quite a bit, but what do you buy and why?

A filter usually has the practical advantage of protecting the front element of your lens from dirt and scratches, plus it is easily replaced if damaged. Many filters in the past were designed to help film cameras record balanced images in different lighting conditions, either warming up or cooling down the final effect. Back in the days of Black and White colour filters were used to eventuate contrast. These days of Digital Cameras, most have programms set to compensate for differing conditions, or the image can berectified on the PC later. So a filter has two uses, protection and image manipulation.

WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW TO BUY A FILTER

1. Filter size (shown in mm and often marked on the front of the lens), this refers to the diameter of the filter required ie. Standard Canon lenses are usually 52mm and most Canon L series lenses are 77mm, but there can be 58mm, 62mm, 72mm etc.

2. Single thread or double thread. Most are double threaded meaning you can stack additional filters on the front.

3. Rim size. If you are using wide angle lenses the narrower the filter the better as it is less likely to cause vignetting (there is usually a premium on the cost)

4. The Effect you require (examples later)

5. Coating. Unless you are buying the cheapest of filters most now available have a surface coating designed to both cut down glare/flare and to improve light transmission into the lens. The number of coatings and whether on one side or both sides of the filter usually improves its performance but adds to the cost.

SO WHICH TYPE FILTER TO BUY?

Basically you need a UV filter for general lens protection, anything else will add a slight colour effect. Look for UV0 or UVN. Skylight filters usually have a slightly warming effect.

Next a Polarising Filter is very useful. Choose a Circular Polarizer (CPL) over Linear Polarizer (The former allows your auto focusing to work without hindrance). This filter when rotated can be used to reduce reflections from shiny surfaces, water, glass, metals, gloss paint surfaces etc. Also when used out of doors it will increase the density of colours especially blue skies, sea etc.

Effects filters. Most filter effects can be added after on you PC if you shoot in digital, but if you still want effects filters go for the square gelatine filters which fit an adaptable holder such as Cokin or Lee. This system can be used on all of your lenses with the adapter ring, plus they are easily stored. Consider the Professional range ( Cokin P ) if you anticipate using with lenses that take larger filters otherwise Cokin A.

WHICH BRAND IS BEST?

I tend to favor Hoya as they usually offer good value and performance

Hoya produce a range of filters but look out for HMC in the discription (Hoya Multi Coated) and if you need a narrow rim filter look for Super HMC

B W Filters made in Germany are also excelent along with Sigma, Canon and Nikon filters

What flash will work on my Canon Digital EOS Camera?

As you'll see in my lens guide, I'm pretty new to all this photography stuff but trying to work it out as I go. Because a lot of my pictures are of family events indoors, I was seeing too many red-eye problems and came to the conclusion that I needed a better flash. There are many available on Ebay and it's confusing to a newbie like me.For now, this guide just has very basic info and directions to a very detailed article on Flash Photography using Canon cameras. Below is one of the FAQ's from the report........I have an old flash unit. Will it work on my new Canon digital EOS camera?Maybe. That depends on what type of flash unit you have.Canon digital cameras can only use Canon Speedlite flash models with names ending in EX. If your Canon flash unit has a model name which ends with E or EZ or anything else then it will not work with any Canon digital EOS camera.As for flash units manufactured by other makers, check its specifications to see if it supports E-TTL flash metering. If it does not, or only lists Canon TTL flash metering then it most likely will not work.

How to find your correct bra size

There's a common but completely wrong myth that your bra size can be found by your underbust measurement plus 5" (if that gives an odd number advice varies between 4" and 6"), with cup size given by subtracting the band size from your full bust measurement. For example, if your underbust measures 31", and full bust is 39", according to the advice above you would probably end up being recommended 36C. Buy a 36C bra with those measurements, and you will almost certainly end up with a band one or two sizes too big, and cup size anything up to 5 sizes too small! It is most important that you totally ignore this rubbish if you want a chance of finding a well fitting bra.Band sizes:The truth is that bra sizing is impossible to do reliably measurements alone, although a ballpark figure can be estimated. The above method will give you totally the wrong ballpark, except possibly if you have an unusually conical ribcage or are a man. Your actual band size is usually somewhere around your underbust measurement plus up to 4" in extreme cases, usually 0-2", sometimes even 1" lower.There is some debate over whether the band size depends entirely on the underbust measurement, or the above breasts measurement needs to be taken into account as well. It may depend on the style of bra, some have a narrow band under the breasts, others (particularly for large cup sizes) have a much wider one so it's possible that it is a factor. One fairly relaible looking formula I've seen suggests taking the average between your above and below bust measurements, going for the small band size if you end up between sizes, maybe even subtracting an inch or two from the average if your underbust measurement is below 33". Some sites say you should just use the above bust measurement as your band size, but don't be surprised if the back band then rides up as it will fit above your breasts and not below, and in case your hadn't noticed your breasts are not on your neck!This highlights another myth I've seen, that smaller sizes need to add more inches to the chest measurement than larger to get the band size. The reason for this is simple, it makes sure as many potential customers as possible believe their size is stocked by the shop! It has no correclation to actual sizes at all, anecdotal evidence suggests it's the other way around and that for small band sizes your band size is approximately equal to your chest measurement, and for large sizes only it's plus 3". Maybe in the realm of 50" chests the classic "add 5" becomes true.So you have a bra you think fits well, how do you know if it's correct and if you need to change?Pretty much the only sign of the band being too small is you physically cannot get into the bra. If it's uncomfortably tight it might be too small, or it may just be the alien (to most women!) sensation of wearing a bra which fits. Remember the first time you ever wore a bra? And then your first underwired bra? Did that feel so comfortable and normal you didn't notice it? If you've been wearing that size for more than a few days then it probably is too tight.The easiest way of telling whether the band is too loose is to try on the next size down. If you can easily get into it, then you should have that size instead. More obvious signs are band riding up, being able to fasten it on the loosest hook even when new, chest pains, too much bounce and sometimes difficulty breathing. Some of these are not obviously traceble to a bad bra fit but magically go away when you wear the correct size. Underwires should lie flat against your chest, if there's a gap between the wires and your breastbone then that is a band size problem, not because you're wearing too small a cup size (although that can be a small factor, you'd need to be about 5 cup sizes out before that could be the only reason).The correlation between band size and dress size is not what you'd expect. Band sizes below 32 are hard to find, so that must correlate to dreszs size 6/8, right? Wrong! It's more like size 10/12, maybe even 14 in some cases. If you are size 6/8 you should be looking at 28 band bras. It's really stupid that outerwear for those sizes is well catered for, but not bras, as women are not TARDISs with one size on the outside and a much bigger one on the inside!Cup sizeGenerally, the cup size = full bust minus band size is not a million miles out. This of course depends on having the correct band size, but also depends on chest and breast shape, and how you're holding the tape measure. For UK sizes, the difference corresponds to cup size as follows:

Beware Krugerrand South Africa Mini Gold Coins Scams

Krugerrand South Africa Mini Gold CoinWhat's wrong with this eBay listing?Well, to start with, 5 out of the 6 words in the title are wrong, inaccurate, misleading, and dishonest.The item in not:1) A Krugerrand2

DO NOT BUY REPRODUCTION TAMIYA MANUALS ON EBAY

Do not buy reproduction manuals from ebay sellers they are a rip off you can get these manuals free from websites like

tamiyabase dot com (this one is the best one for retro manuals I use it all the time)

tamiya dot com english manuals

modelbuild dot co dot uk manuals

And many others.

(sorry not allowed to put links in here but you know what to do right or you can contact me with your email addressand I will email you the links)

Please vote for this guide bellow, Many thanks.

IS IT LOMONOSOV?

The first thing to say about Lomonosov Porcelain is it is NOT RARE!! Their animal figurines were sold in the UK before the last war in WOOLWORTHS! My Mum brought the Large and small Pandas for 3/6d (17.5 pence!!) in 1936.

Lomonosov Porcelain has been made in St.Petersbug/Leningrad/St.Petersburg since 1744. The factory was originally called the Imperial Porcelain Factory but changed to Lomonosov after the Revolution. It is probably most famous for its Animal figurines that range from tiny birds to the mighty Polar Bear at nearly 18" from nose to tail.

ALL Lomonosov was/is marked, normally with a factory stamp and either Made is USSR (Soviet era) or Made in Russia (since 1992). Some of the smaller pieces had a small label with again Made in USSR and the factory mark.

This picture shows the USSR and RUSSIA marks. Note the difference in colour. The earlier mark is almost always much darker.

THERE ARE UNSCRUPULOUS PEOPLE ABOUT WHO FAKE THE "USSR" BY USING THE "USS" FROM RUSSIA AND ADDING INDISTINCT RED MARKS TO LOOK LIKE WEAR AND TEAR. THE UNDERSIDES OF THE ITEMS ARE UNGLAZED - THIS AREA COLLECTS DIRT AND DUST - SO IF YOU HAVE AN ITEM THAT IS SUPPOSEDLY FROM THE "USSR" ERA BUT IS IMMACULATELY CLEAN ON THE UNDERSIDE IT COULD BE FAKED. THEREARE ALSO CHINESE MADE ITEMS STAMPED "FOREIGN" USUALLY IN BLACK. THESE ARE COPIES MADE FROM ORIGINAL FIGURINES. APART FROM THE LACK OF MARKS THEY ARE VERY SHINY AND THE QUALITY OF THE PAINTING IS NOT AS GOOD AS THE REAL THING. FOR OBVIOUS REASONS THE MOSTNUMEROUS ONE IS THE PANDA.

THE WONDERFUL THING ABOUT LOMONOSOV IS THE FACT THAT EACH PIECE IS STILL HANDPAINTED SO NO TWO ANIMALS ARE ALIKE. We have a "pride" of three Tiger cubs and they are all easily distinguishable one from the other!

How To Chose An Accurate Spirit Level

Most Spirit Levels Are Not Accurate, Even The High Quality Ones.... This guide will help you find a good one. It's easy to do once you know how.

Unfortunately this is absolutely true and very easy to prove.Most levels you pick up in a store, even the so-called quality levels such as Stabila and Stanley etc, will have at least one bubble seriously out of alignment, some will have both vertical bubbles out of whack AND the horizontal one too for good measure, (no pun intended).

This can have mildly irritating,or disasterous consequences, depending on what you are planning to do with the level. If you are just putting up shelves, you will probably get away with a slightly out of true level. If you are tiling, or attempting to align kitchen cupboards accurately. the results will look appaling and you will be left telling yourself, or , worse still, your better half will do it for you, that you are the worst D.I.Yer in the world.

The reason is that the slight error in most levels will compound themselves as you continue along a run, so that a 1mm error in the length of the level, by the time you have extended the line by 5 level lengths will be 5mm. Do this when tiling and the finished job will look like you threw the tiles up whilst standing at the bathroom door.

You can avoid this problem by testing the level in the shop before you buy it.

To check the accuracy of the horizontal bubble:

Pick a surface in the store which appears fairly level. Put the level on top of it and mark with a pencil onto the worktop or counter, exactlywhere each end of the levelis situated. (This is done so that you can repeat the test, knowing you are testing in the exact same location).
Now look at the bubble. If it is a bit off being absolutely accurate, lift the low end and place a penny, or 2 or 3 until the bubble is exactly in the middle.
Now pick up the level and turn it around so that the left end of the level is now on the right.
Place the level back between the pencil marks and resting once again on the coins, (if you needed any), The bubble should now once again, be exactly in the centre.
If it isn't, it's not you..... It's the level. It has not been set upaccurately by the manufacturer. Put it back on the shelf and select another one.

Usually I find when i'm choosing a new level, that fewer than 1 in 10 is accurate. You will too. Why not let the other poor souls get the dodgy ones. You take your time and select one which is perfect.

What length level should you choose:

For best results you should always use the longest level which will fiton the surface you are testing. If you can't afford to buy several levels,buy one 2 feet (600mm) long, which you have tested carefully and then pick a piece of very straight wood or other material which iscloser tothe length of the surface you are testing and place this on the surface you are trying to checkwith the level on top of it. By keeping your level tight against this longer length of wood, the new length becomes a longer level.

One last tip. Don't ever leave your level where it might fall over. Some levels can tolerate this kind of abuse, many can't. Also, it is good practise, before you start to tile a wall or fit kitchen cupboards, that you go through the testing process once again. The peace of mind you will have, knowing you can trust this most important of tools is worth every one of the few minutes it takes to carry out the test.

There is one slight downside. If you stillmake a muck up of the job, you now have no excuses left. Choose carefully and look after your level and it will serve you well for life.

Good luck,

Peter

p.s. You can test the vertical bubbles too, you just need a little ingenuity, or a spare pair of hands to hold the coins while you position the level. Remember, the pencil marks are there to ensure you are testing each time in exactly the same place.

Do not Buy any HD DVDs or players

Do not buy any HD DVDs or Players because they are not being produced anymore. Hd DVDs will become unavailable because Toshiba have given up the battle between Blu-Ray and HD DVD. So if you want the best picture quality on the market purchase a Blu-Ray player. Either Samsung or Sony !!!

How scammers run rings round eBay

Everyone knows that buying and selling on eBay is precarious. Even eBay admits this and gives basic advice on its site that it believes helps eliminate most fraud.

But there appears to be a basic weakness in eBay's system that fraudsters and petty thieves are exploiting. It occurs when buyers pay sellers direct into the sellers' bank account by cheque or cash. The following is a real example that occurred in September this year (names withheld for legal reasons). Let's call the buyer Tom and the seller Harry.

Tom won the bid for a mobile phone and agreed to pay Harry (who lives 80 miles away from Tom) 185 plus 6 insurance using cash at a branch of Harry's bank. A few days later a box arrived. It contained a battery charger and an earplug, but no phone. Tom informed Harry who said that he believed someone at the post office must have stolen the phone and that he would look into it.

Days passed and Tom then asked Harry to claim on the insurance. Harry said he had lost the insurance slip and would instead refund 50 per cent of the 185. A week passed and Tom called Harry to say no payment had been received and that he was losing his patience and would report the matter to eBay.

Harry made more excuses and stopped answering his mobile phone. Over the next few weeks they spoke occasionally but Harry refused to send any money and blamed Tom for his removal from eBay (subsequent to Tom informing eBay of his loss). Tom contacted Harry's bank but the bank refused to provide Harry's address. Tom only knows Harry's mobile phone number and Hotmail email address.

In summary, Tom spent 196 on a phone that never arrived and he is not alone. As a result of basic research for this story we have been contacted by five people who have experienced similar scams (their stories, in emails, are copied below). The fact is it appears far too easy for this scam to be perpetrated.

Pattern of fraudThe pattern is all too predictable. Buyers and sellers agree not to go through the more secure PayPal system because it costs more to do so. So buyers take the risk of sending the money to the seller who either doesn't send the goods or sends shoddy or fake goods. The sellers protect themselves against prosecution by claiming loss, or disputing the buyer's version of events. The amounts involved - though not insignificant to the buyer - are too small for eBay to want to take the matter further.

There is one other common factor in all these stories. Though the buyers report the matter to eBay they are invariably frustrated at standard email responses and being steered towards a mediation system which costs the buyer 15 and even then may or may not lead to resolution. Alternatively, sellers can claim compensation through eBay and may get a maximum of 105 - if they claim between 30 and 90 days after the event and meet the criteria for payment. In our example above Tom made a claim last month and is still waiting.

A common refrain is: "Should I report this to the police? eBay are not replying to my emails about this and I don't know if the police are aware or not. What should I do?"

eBay declined an interview in relation to this story but instead issued a statement:

"eBay takes the issue of fraud very seriously and investigates every case of fraud reported to it. eBay currently has over 1,000 people worldwide with backgrounds in law enforcement, customer support, advanced computer engineering and analysis dedicated to making eBay one of the safest places to trade online and, in the UK, employs an ex-Scotland Yard officer as liaison point for law enforcement agencies.

"The majority of transactions on the eBay site are completely secure and without incident. Approximately 0.01 per cent of transactions end in a confirmed case of fraud."

This means that for every million transactions, 100 are 'confirmed' fraudulent, though the criteria for this confirmation are not available. Any security consultant will say that is an acceptable level of risk and way below fraud levels on credit cards. Not surprisingly, eBay therefore does not advise people specifically not to pay by cheque or cash payment into a seller's bank account.

Top tipsOn the eBay website its 'top tips' state that sellers should ideally use secure payment systems like PayPal (which offers greater levels of protection, though still limited if the seller has little or no track record) and should NOT use money transfer services "like Western Union".

But aside from telling buyers to be wary it does not tell buyers NOT to send cheques or pay directly into sellers' bank accounts (either by money transfer or using cash at a bank branch). Clearly it believes that most such transactions are safe and therefore if the buyer assesses the risk as low, then why not?

Many eBay users may agree - it's 'caveat emptor' applied to the world of online car boot sales. But when Steve Gold, a security consultant, celebrity ex-hacker (he co-hacked the Duke of Edinburgh's Prestel mailbox), and former accountant also gets hit by such a scam you begin to wonder how the mass of eBay's users are avoiding getting stung and whether the 0.01 per cent figure is an accurate reflection of the amount fraud occurring.

Gold, an experienced eBay user, reports that he bought a hard drive for 63 from a man who never sent the item. After weeks of the usual hassle he used 192.com to track the man down to confront him. The seller - somewhat shocked to see his 'victim' - pleaded poverty and illness and apologized profusely. Gold admitted defeat safe in the knowledge that at least he had confronted his fraudster and learnt a useful - if painful - lesson.

Pants downHe now says he uses a mixture of web tools to check out sellers. He pays 192 dot com 25 per 100 enquiries to get addresses from phone numbers; he uses maporama.com to check out locations of sellers; and he admits he is more cautious than ever.

"eBay is caught with its pants down," he says. "They are neglecting their customers; they should make a shed load of information available to help people to avoid this." Like others Gold says he hit a brick wall when he tried to get other bodies involved: "I went to trading standards - they weren't interested. I even compiled a dossier on the seller and sent it to his local police force. Subsequently they told me they were aware of eBay fraud but don't deal with it." Gold believes the level of fraud on eBay is higher than the 0.01 per cent figure given: "But how can we tell? eBay won't reveal the real figures so we have no way of knowing."

He has a point. Credit card fraud has been reduced over the years by greater public awareness over the levels and types of fraud occurring. eBay is relying on sellers to be 'careful' but the question for the regulatory authorities remains: Is eBay doing enough to protect its users? Those who lose out as a result of this type of scam certainly think not.

Clearly eBay cannot be held responsible for dishonesty among sellers but perhaps it could do a lot more to warn people how easy it is for petty criminals to exploit our desire for a bargain. Maybe it is time for an independent body to track complaints against the system so that buyers can get a better picture of the types and frequency of frauds occurring.

Cricket bats: English Willow "nurtured in India"

UPDATED: July, 2010: Buyers beware: as I alluded in one of my other guides (fake cricket bats guide ) on purchasing a genuine cricket bat safely on Ebay: THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS ENGLISH WILLOW NURTURED IN INDIA!!!Any willow nurtured in India is Kashmir Willow. End of story.Put it this way - it's like saying Big Ben is an Indian monument "nurtured in England" or the Taj Mahal is an English building "nurtured in India". That's how ridiculous this is.

Yet, so many sellers continue to flog their cheap rubbish on Ebay and con decent people into paying good money for a pathetic product.Kashmir Willow vs English Willow is like comparing a Volkswagen to a Porsche: sure, they make look a bit similar to a very drunk man but you are just wasting your money if you pay top dollar for the former, expecting it to perform like the latter.Kashmir Willow is very cheap, it lacks the durability of English Willow and definitely does not have the same performance. If you do buy a bat made of Kashmir Willow, at least make sure you get it VERY CHEAP. Seriously. Even a Grade 1 Kashmir Willow bat should not cost more than 20 plus P P, that's how cheap and tacky the wood is - there are other useful and well-written guides on Ebay about willow grade, and I would urge you to read more about this.

The mainreason why English Willow is so much more expensive thanKashmir Willow should be obvious - the former is grown in English soil, English climate conditions, takes a long time to reach maturity and is a labour of love on the part of the grower. Top quality Grade 1 English Willow is a much-sought after product and is limited by availability , therefore the conmen try to pass off Kashmir Willow as the real deal. Kashmir Willowis grown relatively quickly in dubious Indian soil and the hot/humid climate is completely different, resulting in wood that is often very brittle and lacks the "ping" of English Willow. The fact that Kashmir Willow can be grown much faster is one of the main reasons why it is so weak. Think battery hens vs free range!

You may also wonder what the big deal is about when the sellers claim thewillow is "air dried" - this is important as it adds to the longevity of the wood if it is dried naturally in the open air as opposed to in a drying machine. Air drying adds even more time to the bat-making process but is worth it in the long run. Of course, Kashmir Willow can also be air dried but that's another story!

And don't get deceived by claims that a particular bat is genuine because it has the "hologram sticker" on the back to prove its "authenticity"... You can buy those "hologram stickers" on Ebay! They prove nothing.

These may bemy opinions but are based on 15 years of sports journalism, being around some of the finest bat manufacturers in the world (I have covered a Cricket World Cup and literally hundreds of first class matches. I have not met one professional with a bat made of Kashmir Willow. This should tell you a lot!).

Okay peeps, thecricket season here in theUK is well under way but some of you may still be looking for a cricket bat.Just remember that the usual rules apply when choosing your ideal bat (see all my other guides if you are unsure). And write to me if you suspect you have bought a fake so that we can warn others what to look out for.

TIP: When a bat-making company ends a major sponsorship deal with a big star, their products tend to be much cheaper the following season! So there are lots of great deals on eBay at the moment. Send me a message if you want some examples as I can't mention brands here!

Please read my other related guides and rate them if they were helpful.

Guide to PC Cable management tidy up inside your case

If this looks familiar read below on how to give that mini makeover your hard working baby needs.

Cable management is the most visual aspect of your kick ass system. However, cable management is often overlooked as it can be time consuming. The inside of a computer case is usually a mess of cables and wires. Power cables get tangled up and loose wires can be damaged from fans or other jagged edges inside the case.

Cable braiding What is it?

Its an expandable, flexible, cylindrical braiding where your cables are poked in from one end and out the other. The internal diameter can range greatly depending on whether the braiding is pushed together and compressed making a large inside diameter or pulled and extended making a small inside diameter. The ends require tying off with cable ties, heatshrink or melted together otherwise the braiding can come undone.How easy is it to use/reuse?A complete pain, to be honest! Compared to virtually every other cable management solution it takes no time at all to get it on, but then you need to seal the ends and make sure its the right length because once you cut there isnt any undoing it. Not only that, but it can require some trial and error to get right because sometimes the ends will either fray and come out from their heatsink/cable tie seals which means you have to do the whole thing again.How does it look?In short, when done right it looks damn good; arguably the best looking cable management solution. People dont go to the trouble of using it for nothing, right? Being available in a huge range of colours and weave patterns allows manufacturers to match the style of the product with the braid they want.Cost?Cable braiding doesnt cost that much per meter, in the same range as spiral wrap but specialist colours or weave patterns can cost more. You have to also take into account the fact you need some manner of sealing the ends like heatshrinking and zip ties which is an extra cost.What should I use it for?Single use applications you plan on never changing like PSU or fan wires, or if you plan to round your own SCSI or IDE cables. It can successfully be used for large applications that need to be aesthetically pleasing as the cables just requires pushing through from one end to the other, unlike spiral wrap which requires effort and time to wrap around every-single-rotation.

TheAC Ryan flexsleeve kitsare the ideal way to eliminate these problems. Try braided sleeve itis expandable up to 150%, making it easy to slip over any plugs or connectors. Made of flexible material, the Cable Sleeving Kit is a good choice it will not break or crack. Sleeving your cables not only makes the inside of your computer look cleaner, it will also improve airflow, reducing the heat inside the case. The Cable Sleeving Kit is also ideal for bundling cables and wires outside your case as well.

Features:

Protect your cables and wires

Reduce mess and clutter inside your case

Improve airflow while reducing heat

Package Contains: 10 ft. - 1/8" sleeving 10 ft. - 1/4" sleeving 5 ft. - 3/8" sleeving 5 ft. - 1/2" sleeving 10 - tie wraps 1 ft. - 9mm Heatshrink Tubing 1 ft. - 20mm Heatshrink Tubing 6 in. - 25mm Heatshrink Tubing

Tie Wraps are also great way to neaten up your cables and wires. Tie Wraps are available in a variety of colors so pick to your own colour scheme.

Spiral wrap What is it?A length of coloured or colourless plastic that has been cut in a corkscrew, spiral style meaning you can untwist it and wrap it around your cables keeping them together.

How easy is it to use/reuse?Pretty easy. Again, once you get a rhythm going it goes on exceptionally easy - but it still does take some time and if you want to add another cable you have to unwrap it all, then start again (or try and push it up between the other wires which generally doesnt work). Its extremely frustrating to undo and redo all your good work just to add one more wire. It does, however, 'expand' to accommodate a bigger circumference of wires then its starting size, an attribute which makes it more versatile for future use, but if you go too big it tends to permanently stretch the plastic.How does it look?It can look good if you dont stuff too many cables in. You can get it in a whole range of colours and sizes to colour co-ordinate if need be. Its not the ultimate solution in aesthetics, but it does hide the cables and keep them neat at the same time job done.Cost?Generally pretty cheap, a metre can cost anywhere from around 80p a meter for the cheapest, smallest stuff to more specialist stuff (like UV reactive) which is a couple of pounds / dollars a metre (translate that into roughly 1:1, :$).What should I use it for?Smaller solutions in clear view, but can easily be used again for larger needs with not too much extra cost. Something carefully planned: because of the nature of application you should consider exactly what you need in it before using it, to save you unwrapping it all and doing it again.

Split Loom What is it?Split Loom basically consists of a flexible corrugated tube of coloured plastic with a slit down one side you can slot your cables into.Loom is plastic tubing that is used to wrap wires. It can be also called split loom, and plastic tubing, so when shopping for it, look for it under those names. Split Loom (1/2 inch and inch diameter loom will cover most of the wires in your case) Looming is a cheap solution to make wires look a lot nicer, but for some, looming is not good enough. Some times zip ties don't look as nice as some would want them too, and loom isn't exactly sexy. If you want to spend more money to make your wires easier to look at, gogo forwire sleeving. Sleeving is the classy alternative to loomHow easy is it to use/reuse? Even though starting is a bit of a pain, Ive found that bending the loom backwards to open up the slit allows you to get a rhythm going and easily zip down, pushing in the cable as you go. Once youve broken the seal on a new length of loom it becomes easier and easier to reuse but it you cannot overfill it otherwise the cables spill out. This becomes a problem if later you need to add another wire, or have a couple of large cables you want to lump together, so its important make sure your loom is big enough to accommodate all the wires you intend to put in it.How does it look?It completely covers all your unsightly, non-colour-co-ordinated cables into a nice, tidy, single coloured solution. The loom can look bulky, especially in a smaller case and overfilling it makes it look unsightly, however, if done right it can definitely become a very aesthetically pleasing solution.Cost?Compared to other solutions its at the expensive end of the scale, in the UK at least. In the US it can be had for cheaper but compared to how far a 100 pack of zip ties goes, its the equivalent to lining the inside of your case with gold plating. Look to pay around 3 per metre.What should I use it for?Lugging small amounts of cables together. If youre going for a colour theme, its definitely worth splashing out.

Heat shrink What is it?A rubber material that when strongly heated shrinks around the wire and seals over it making an electrically resistant seal.How easy is it to use?Pretty easy, but its single use means its not as versatile as other solutions. Heatshrink is graded depending on its start diameter and its final (shrunk) diameter so you can work out exactly how small you want it to go and how big you need it to start with. Everyone has their own way of shrinking it - personally I prefer using a simple lighter, but better is to use a hotter blue flame like a gas hob or blow torch, turning it quickly to get an even shrink and reduce the chance of it melting. A hair dryer can also be used: it takes longer to shrink, but there is no risk of melting.Heat shrinkHow does it look?Pretty bad in most cases, and its rarely/never used in large scale as its hard to get an even shrink. You can get some variety of colours like red and blue but nearly all the time only black is available.

Cost?One of the cheaper solutions, heatshrink generally doesnt cost much at all, generally a little cheaper than spiral wrap and can be bought in a wide range of sizes. Buying from large electrical suppliers in bulk can definitely be cheaper, and its always useful for electrical projects.What should I use it for?Sealing ends and making them electrically insulated. Its not used for a complete cable management solution because it just doesnt look the part and it is single use only.Velcro wraps What is it?Different manufacturers make different products, but generally its a length of Velcro with the hooks on one side and loops on the other, so wrapping it around a cable on itself creates a loop that holds.

How easy is it to use?As easy as cable ties, you just literally wrap it around and youre done - and since they are reusable it doesnt matter if you make a mistake or find the need to add another cable later.How does it look?If anything, a little worse than cable ties unfortunately because they are less discreet. The nature of their use means that they dont cover the cable, just keep it tidy and whilst they are colourful, they dont necessarily look at all that good. Our advice? Get black velcro for black cables and keep it subdued.Cost?Because they are multi-use they are generally more expensive than cable tie . You can get anti-static ties at around $4 but usually a pack of 5-10 will cost around a few pound/dollars.What should I use it for? General reusable applications where aesthetic value isnt important. Due to the variety of sizes, velcro can be bought in it can be used for a many cable solutions but due to the cost per unit its better to use them when you intend to change it often. If you want a semi-permanent to permanent solution, use zip ties

Molex connector kits

Removing the power from devices inside your computer can be difficult with standard molex plugs. The protrusions on the side of the molex are difficult to hold on firmly and, if you were to exert force, can leave your fingers feeling sore. We reccomend the ACRYANconnectors as they simplify the ordeal by putting flexible, rounded grips on the top and bottom of the molex connector. Not only do these grips make it easier to hold, pressing down on the grips separates the connector from the device slightly, perfect for when the molex connector feels "stuck." Connectors are available in a variety of UV reactive colors.

Slot Protectors

Dirty slots are bad. When you see them you just want to run away. You can yell at them "You are nothing but a filthy slot!", but it doesn't do any good. You can try to clean them up, but they will just go back to their dirty ways. Your mother wouldn't be very proud of you either if she always sees you with dirty slots. In order to stop a slot from being a dirty slot you need to cover it up. The Vantec Slot Protector Kit comes with covers for your PCI slots and RAM slots. By covering them up, you will prevent dust and dirt from building up inside that can cause contact problems when inserting new cards or sticks. Plus these protectors are UV reactive so that you can dress up your slots. The kit comes with five PCI slot protectors and three RAM slot protectors. So throw your filthy slots back on the street, and pick up the Vantec Slot Protector Kit to clean up your life and enhance your connections. These also illuminate under aUV light.

Round Cables

Round cables are a necessity for every windowed computer case. Round cables will dramatically improve the visual appeal of a windowed case as well as improve airflow through the chassis. As they are easy to keep maintained in a tidy fashion within the case. They are avaialbe in different lengths and devices and are avaialble in SATA IDE and Floppy. They come in normal silver or copper braided and UV. We would reccomend Vantec and Revoltec as they are quality made at reasonable pricing.

Fan Filters

Most fan filters are madof metal there job is to free you from annoying dust. It will be simply screwed to the corresponding fan. Thus dust collection in the interior of the case will be effectively prevented. The airstream of the fan will be only minimally alleviated through the coarsely mashed metal coating. The filters are easy to wash out and thus over and over usable. We reccomend any to be honest all do the same job no matter waht the brand however we have found only AC Ryando a full size range.

The results you can get from some simple adjusting can be very beneficial to cooling as you improve the air circulation and also help prolong the life of your parts by keeping them as dust free as possible.

Wee ride childrens front bicycle seat

This is an excellent seat for a child. As it is front facing then you feel your child is very safe as your arms are around them as you cycle.

Your child can see where they are going as if they were riding the bike. It has a rest on the front that they can hold onto and use as a support.

The leg rest is enclosed in the plastic so they can't wave their legs around.

It also has a harness. I couldn't have bought a more safer bicycle seat for my daughter and she absolutely loved it.

SWAPSHOPBARGAINS-FAKE HOME AND AWAY SHIRTS !DO NOT BUY!

Do not buy any shirts HOME or AWAY you will loose your MONEY . I have and others have to!!! The bargain IS to good to be true. You can e-mail until you are blue in the face but you will not get a responce. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!! USE IT? REMEMBER SWAPSHOPBARGAINS AVIOD LIKE THE PLAGUE .

R/C Cars, what do you need to know?

Hi, welcome to my guide of the R/C world, use the information i have posted to pick the correct R/C vehicle for you.

How big is your pocket?:

A) under 10 = A "Micro" car
B) 50 or under = a normal radio controlled electric Subaru or Something similar
C) 100 or under = a bigger electric vehicle
D) 150 or under = a small Nitro powered offroader or Subaru
E) 200 or under = a bigger Nitro car with a bigger engine or some upgraded parts
F) 300 = you can get just about any nitro or electric vehicle for this money
G) 800 or under = The BIG BOYS TOYS, Huge Offroad Monster trucks and
Buggies that use a "weed whacker" engine that runs on real petrol


How big is your running area?:

A) Electric = Laminate floor, bigger ones may take carpet
B) Nitro = Field or a Stunt park


How big can you take?:

A) Electric = a small box to a lareg plastic tray
B) Nitro = A large plastic tray, a custom made bag up to wraping it up in a beach towel


The Mess?:

A) Electric cars = No Mess, can go for months without the need for oiling
B) Nitro vehicles = will leak oil and nitro fuel, should be kept in a dry garage or shed



The running Cost?:

A) Electric cars = only the small electric bill for using the charger and the batteries (unless rechargable)
B) Nitro cars = The batteries (unless rechargable), the fuel (15 a week) and the Oil



Driving Skills:?

A) Electric = Not much skill needed, use these to build up your driving skills
B) Nitro = Intermediate to Expert, can reach high speeds and hurt if they run into someone


Conclusion:

if you awnsered mostly A, then go for an electric
if you awnsered mostly B, then go for a nitro

hope this helps everyone

Steve.

Buying an Aibo the safe way.

So, you have decided to buy an Aibo. How do you buy one without being scammed? Afterall Aibos are quite a large purchase. Follow these steps and you will have done everything in your power to make a safe purchase.

If an offer looks too good to be true, it is. Be wary.
Look at their account details, if anything seems out of place, beware.
Avoid an auctions that dont have a picture of their Aibo or a stock photo copy/pasted off another web site.
Ask for a photo of their Aibo with a piece of paper that has your details on it. This proves that they actually have an Aibo for sale. If they say they dont have a camera, walk away as if they can afford an Aibo, they can afford a camera.
Ask if you can pick the Aibo up in person. Again, if they say "no" walk away as they dont have an Aibo and besides would you trust something of that value through the postal system?
If you are in doubt, ask the opinion of the many Aibo user forums that are on the net.

Now, feel free to browse the auctions....

How to grade 78rpm records for sale on ebay

A short guide to grading those old 78rpm records which you want to dispose of on ebay, so that bidders will know what they are going to get!

In the UK the most widely accepted grading system is found in the Record Collector Rare Record Price Guide and magazine. This is designed for all types of records i.e. vinyl LPs and singles as well as shellac 78rpm records, so I have added some comments to help you adapt the record collector grading system for 78s.

One notable point for 78s is that unlike vinyl LPs the cover/sleeve is not usually expected by buyers, especially for 1940s and earlier ones. It is an added selling point especially for 1950s 78s or unusual 78s which came with an attractive sleeve.

MINT: The record itself is in brand new condition with no surface marks or deterioration in sound quality. Cover and any extras in perfect condition. As 78s will usually be at least 50 years old, it is bad form to grade these as Mint! The very best may be graded as "Near Mint" and if it really is old shop stock i.e. unplayed from some unsold stock after a record shop closed, you can say that.

EXCELLENT: "EX" The record shows some signs of having been played but there is very little lessening in sound quality. Cover and packaging might have slight wear and creasing. Note that 78s of the 1920s and 1930s will generally suffer audibly if there are visible signs of wear. However, by the 1950s, recording techniques were so much better that rock and pop 78s of the 1950s may show visible wear but play superbly. This makes it a little difficult to grade and you may wish to say "sounds EX" if you have been able to play and check sound quality. I think you should grade more conservatively for records which are older than 1950. Use and - to give more accurate grading. EX would be a really shiny copy with hardly a mark on it. EX- for a 1950s 78 could look quite scuffed but with no deep scratches and with only minor greying/worn looking patches.

VERY GOOD: "VG" The record has obviously been played many times but displays nomajor deterioration in sound quality, despite noticeable surface marks and the occasional light scratch. Many 78s are found in this condition. Those that sound pleasant enough, albeit with the usual background hiss and a bit of sound deterioration, could be graded VG . Those which are still just about listenable but tough on the ears would have to be graded VG-. As a buyer avoid anything VG- or below unless it is a real rarity which you must have in any condition. As a seller, if the record is a common one you are probably wasting your timelisting anything below VG . Take it to a charity shop!

GOOD: Record has been played so much that the sound quality has noticeably deteriorated, perhaps with some distortion and mild scratches. Generally these are not fit for sale/purchase frankly. Unfortunately there can be serious misunderstandings on ebay. A seller using the record collector grading system can grade a record as "Good" and the buyer, thinking "good means good" will not realise that, technically, good= not good. On the other hand, an inexperienced seller may look at a nice shiny, unmarked 78, think "that looks good" and grade it as "good" when it should be described as EX .

FAIR: Just playable. Only great rarities are worth buying or selling in this condition.

POOR: Will not play properly due to scratches, bad surface noiseetc.

BAD: The record is unplayable or might even be broken. Throw it away BUT before you do so give some thought as to whether it might be so mega rare or of such great historical interest that even in this condition it is worth keeping. Is it by blues singerRobert Johnson? Was it recorded by a Jewish owned record company in Nazi Berlin in 1936? Is it a recording of a radio broadcast which might be unique? Does it have a very beautiful or unusual label? There are some very rare things that a specialist collector, discographer or museum might want even if it comes in two pieces!

If this guide has been helpful please use the tickbox to say so! See my other guides, if you sell some 78s you may want to check my guide to safe packing- to avoid your record leaving you in "EX" condition but arriving with your buyerin "BAD" shape!

BEWARE OF SELLERS THAT DO NOT OFFER PAYPAL

beware the many scammers that abuse ebay,

other than the high charges that paypal charge, why would any seller not offer paypal as a form of payment, its safe secure and easy to make a claim if things go wrong.

i have just personaly been ripped of by a scammer that sent me an ebay second chance offer but did not offer paypal as a form of payment.

ebays policys then let the scammer have a 10 day rampage to gain as much of your hard earned cash as they can get in the 10 days allowed before you can make a claim, (their accounts should be susspended immediatly the problem is reported even if it alegitimate mistake of the buyer) better to be safe than sorry as in my case, i will never buy another item on ebay that i can not collect in person or dose not offer paypal as a form of payment.

paypal should encourage people to pay for their items as they are trying too now, BUT should also encourage sellers to offer paypal by reducing the high charges they apply on all payments and then we can stamp out the scammers once and for all.

just to update this the seller in question had over 30 days to scam other users and is now no longer registered with ebay he also scammed another user out of 130 a month before he struck on me.

if you agree to this guide please feel free to click the Was this guide helpful button.

thanks for taking time to read it and safe ebaying

A Wii bit of advice from a Platinum Power Seller

Ok folks, so you want a Nintendo Wii, and you want to be 100% happy when purchasing from Ebay?

I'll keep it simple :D

1. Check the feedback for recent history of sales of Wii's, this is fundementally the most important thing, if someone is even slightly dodgy it will show in the feedback

2. Check what postal service they use, any servicewithout a tracking number is a no no, I mean you are paying a lot of money for a hard to find item why skimp on the postage?

3. Watch out for postage prices, Parcelforce 48 is 14.99 online, Parcelforce 24 is 18.99 and Special delivery is 19.45 for a wii. Sure allow 1 for packaging but don't get ripped off, ebay and paypal do not charge fees on postage.

4. Ask before you bid if you are not sure, simple really plus if the response is quick then you are good to go. Ebay's feedback system is now great to spot problems and ask the seller for a phone number, anyone upfront enough to give you their landline is going to be good.

5. NEVER EVER EVER take a risk and buy something too good to be true. On occassion a scammer might pop up and stick 99 wii's on for less than retail, now the trade price for wii's are around 168, so please no matter the excuse, it's going to be dodgy! They'll stall you with the 'I'm waiting for a delivery that's been promised in two weeks' etc...and while you wait he sells 20 a day, takes the money and runs...but Paypal usually will spot them first.

6. Consoles from within the EU are fine, seriously, the only difference between the two is the plug, so don't worry, they are all in English and play UK games fine.

7. I sell them too.

8. Don't be scared of ebay :D

Do NOT buy Led Zeppelin tickets @o2 on ebay

Hi,

Do NOT buy Led Zeppelin tickets @ the o2 arena on September 26thon ebay!!

This also includes codes to buy them as security at time of booking and on theday will only let the original person to pre ordered them in (They have there ways of knowing!)

The event organisers are cancelling every ticket that is displayed and sold on ebay!!

This is so only genuine fans will get them originally!

So it will be a waste of your money buying on ebay to be refused entrance at door!

So DO NOT BUY LED ZEPPELIN TICKETS ON EBAY!

Thanks

Please note that the above information is not in correct as it was supplied on the official website.

Buying Atari Jaguar Hardware and Software on eBay

NEWS

Jagfest UK 08is proposed to be held in the Cambridge area inOctober 2008. Ill post more info as I find out. Several new game releasesare being showcased, Including a special limited edition cartridge ofPainter which has extra exclusive levels and new sound effects and music. Im also hoping to have a very limited number of very rare Alien v Predator beta game carts featurning a very different version of the famous game, regarded by some as one of the best games on the Jaguar system. (If I can get permission from Rebellion Games sorted in time) Anotherattractionwill bea working bare bones example of the Jaguar development - the CoJag standing for coin op Jaguar, much funcan be had playing area 51 and Maximum force on this excellent system free of charge to con attendees -The Co-Jag is anindicator of what the Jaguar could have developed into had Atari not skimped on the initial specs.

We also hope to showcase a working pair of Jaguar voice modems a late development that enabled deathmatch or co-operative play via a phone line, Ultra Vortek is known to have the correct code for modem play and a new discovery in old documents may mean there is a version of Iron Soldier 2 out there that can also be played via the modems.

Severalgaming tournaments on Jaguar games you seldom see on eBaywill be organised and further details of the event can be found on the Jagfest. orgwebsite. Well worth a visit.

Buying Hardware and software for the

ATARI JAGUAR

I have for many years been a fan of the Atari Jaguar 64 Bit Interactive Game Console, but just lately I have become very concerned that a lot of buyers are being taken advantage of by misleading and inaccurate listings, either through ignorance or duplicity. One American dealer who consistently overcharges, is extremely arrogant and boasts openly how he rips the Jaguar community off by buying up any rare games on eBay then reselling them in his eBay shop with huge mark ups - his name - many will know already is Sweetsstuff4u he uses several other aliases when buying,Is believed to have been thrown off eBay for shill bidding on his own auctions and actively messages and abuses people that are bidding against him in auctions. Ill probably get abuse for mentioning his name here - but I dont care as its all true and documented, and as soon as I have his other ID's confirmed Ill post them here too.

Currently some of the prices being asked for are quite patently ridiculous. In many casesmisleading descriptions describing common items as VERY RARE or standard accessories as being CUSTOMACCESSORIES are taken at face value by new members who end up paying way over the accepted price.

Here is a link to an eBay group I created for all people who buy Atari Jaguar merchandise from eBay:-

http://groups.ebay.co.uk/forum.jspa?forumID=300008006

On this group are several longtime collectors of Jaguar games and hardware who are very clued up on the 'going rate' for items. And are able to provide advice and guidance on locating and buying items at the best possible price. If I can get it put up there, there will also be a link to the Jaguar Sector II Price Guide, which has listings for just about everything ever produced for the Jaguar, including rare prototype items such as the Virtual Reality systems.

There are Jaguar items that are indeed VERY RARE and do command high prices but by and large the run of the mill standard Jaguar Hardware and software is still very reasonably priced and available mint boxed shrinkwrapped from many reputable eBay retro console suppliers. The forum will be what you make it - I try and put in regular snippets of news about the Atari Jaguar - whenever I can, but if you join dont be afraid to share your experiences and thoughts with the group - good or bad.

We hope to carry alerts about rogue dealers who rip people off in any way, be it overcharging on P

ViewMaster Viewer

You remember ViewMaster!

Those funny looking round cards with 14 photographs around the edge and those viewers which look like binoculars and that lever at the side which advances the views. Most of us had one as a child, or knew someone who had one, at least. Well, they are back and becoming more popular as a collecting area as each month goes by.

This guide is intended to get you going on a collection and to answer the most basic of questions that new collectors ask me on a regular basis. Please don't think that this guide will answer ALL your questions - you can always send me an eBay message with any other questions that you have.
Quick HistoryThe ViewMaster system was invented in the late 1930's as an improved 'stereoscope', superceding the ones that had been popular at the turn of the century, smaller, neater and in colour too. The first viewers, models A

UK BED SIZES

As a manufacturer I recently read a review regarding UK bed sizes, the writer gave aninaccurate sizeing so here are the correct sizes. You should also be aware that due to the manufacturing process a tolerance of 3.8cm or 1.5" should be made. The sizes listed below are the spring size not the finished product, soif you purchase amattress with generous layers of filling the thicker the mattress becomes, hence the tolerance.

Small Single 75cm x 190 cm or 2ft 6" x 6ft 3"

Single 90 x 190 cm or 3ft x 6ft 3"

Small Double 120 cm x 190 cm or 4ft x 6ft 3"

Double 135 cm x 190 cm or 4ft6" x 6ft 3"

Kingsize 150 cm x 200cm or 5ft x 6ft 6"

Superking 180 cm x 200 cm or 6ft x 6ft 6"

Queen size is an American term for Double. You should also be aware when purchasing a bed from Ikea only their own mattresses will fit their beds, Ikea sizeing is not standard so do not expect to buy a bed from Ikea and a mattress from elsewhere as it will not fit.

MULBERRY ROXANNE FAKE OR NOT?

Firstly a new Mulberry Roxanne is 595 so if it is listed on Ebay for much lessthan this guide price chances are it is not authentic. You will see pre-owned bags but again you will not pick one up for 100-200 so ask if the seller has any proof of purchase. One way of spotting a terrible fake (which i have seen on sale here at Ebay) is to look at the side flaps that have the D ring hanging from them , they should be suede at the top and leather at the bottom the obvious fakes are all leather. Another thing is the round copper disk inside the bag if it has a serial number on it be wary i have not seen a Roxanne in a department storewith a serial number on it. If there are limited pictures on the listing ask for more to be shown this will also be a good sign that the bag is in the sellers possession and is not being sent from a bag supplier in China or the likes. Inspect the pictures closely and match to those found on the Mulberry website to compare the quality of the bag. Check the sellers items for sale link if they have more than one Mulberry listed it is unlikely they are the "real thing". Do not be scared of asking questions establish where and when the item was originally brought and how much it cost.Check the colour of the bag if in doubt contact Mulberry direct to see if they have produced a bag in the colour listed.

THIERRY MUGLER - ANGEL - FRAGRANCE INFORMATION

As I'm often asked to describe fragrances, I thought I'd compile some guides to assist when considering purchasing a particular fragrance. Choosing a fragrance is a matter of personal choice and preference but I hope these guides are useful

THIERRY MUGLER - ANGEL

Design House - Thierry MuglerYear Introduced - 1992Fragrance Notes - Vanilla, sandalwood and patchouli. With notes of Bergamot, Honey, Dewberry, Caramel, Chocolate and Red Berries.Recommended Use - Daytime/Romantic

The first perfume of Thierry Mugler, introduced in 1992. Its fragrant nature explores essenses of honey, chocolate and caramel. Blended with notes of vanilla, patchouli and sandalwood.It evokes the emotion of tender childhood memories, together with a sense of dreamlike infinity.Angel, which launched a new fragrancecatagory called the 'oriental gourmands' seduces us with angelic flavours found deep within the heart of our memories, as well as sensual and passionate notes.

Wimbledon Tickets Beware!

If you are endeavouring to sell Wimbledon Tennis Tickets won in the annual ballot BEWARE!

Under The AELTC terms and conditions you are not able to re-sell these tickets. You are likely to receive a solicitors letter reminding you of this and you will need to withdraw them from sale.

If you fail to do so,you could be liable for further action from AELTC and also subsequently you will not able to apply for future tickets via the ballot

In addition if you have purchased any such tickets on Ebay you may well find that this will not guarantee you entry! and you could be turned away at the gate.

Be Careful.

Tele / telephoto 2x / 3x lens adapters / converters

When buyingtelephoto lens adapters, BEWARE that certain lenses labelled as 2x may be only around 1.4x or 1.5x, and lenses labelled as 3x may in fact be only around 1.7x or 1.8x .

In order to tell the magnification factor, measure an object in a "telephoto" shot, measure the same object in a "normal" shot, then divide these two lengths to get the x0.nn factor. For more accuracy, repeat this, and use as large an image as possible.

Example, an object measures 67mm in the "telephoto" shot, 45mm in the "normal" shot; 67/45 = 1.49x.

Example 2, an object measures 6.9" in the "telephoto" shot, 3.3" in the "normal" shot; 6.9/3.3 = 2.09x.

IF A LENS DOESN'T HAVE ACCOMPANYING PICTURES taken with the actual lens, DON'T BUY IT !

If it does, make sure they are taken with the ACTUAL LENS, and not generic photos off the internet. Or off the lens box itself - the one I've got is inaccurate. The "telephoto" shotis merely a cropped, smaller version of the "normal" shot.

5 Tips to Get Your Ebay Shop Noticed!

Short and to the point:
1) Ensure you run enough online auctions to 'pull' people into your shop.
2) Offer Postage discounts to encourage buyers to purchase more items from you.
3) Make your shop homepage look good (I need to work on this one!) no one wants to see a homepage with tons of errors.
4) Run an occasional 'loss leader', I find this works as it attracts large numbers of people to that listing and then they visit my shop!
5) Advertise your shop on your listings, some people may not realize you have a shop!
And one extra one...cross promote with shops or sellers that sell items that compliment yours, its free so you might as well do it.
I have picked these points up off the very helpful people that reply to my numerous 'shouts for help', so thankyou everyone!

Basic Jewellery Making - Wrapped Wire Link / Drop (L1)

Princess Jewellery's guide to making a beaded wrapped wire link or drop.Difficulty level: Level 1 - Beginner (For explanation of ratings please see bottom of this guide)Time: 5 minutesI
chose to make a beaded link instruction page simply because I use
them all the time. They're quick, pretty and so versatile - you can use
this technique in almost any item of jewellery. With all my
instructions, I'm simply describing how I
do it. There may be other techniques and you may find that another
suits you better - there's usually no right or wrong method, only how
comfortable you are using it.For jewellery ideas using beaded links, take a look at theJewellery Design Gallery in my ebay shop.Wrapped beaded link.

What you will needFor
the single basic link I've given instructions for below you will need 5cm of wire (I used 22g dead soft), two 4mm beads and one 6mm bead.I also needed the following basic jewellers tools:Wire cuttersRound nose pliersFlat pliers (I usually use two pairs)Chain nose pliers (Wrapped links only)Making Your LinkThere
are two types of basic beaded link - this is the slightly more complex wrapped link.
Personally I tend to use wrapped links as they're more secure and less
likely to come apart. I've written a separate guide for the easier basic links as well - you might wish to familiarise youself with the basic link guide first - ebay limits the number of pictures I can use in this guide so I've cut a couple of the pictures that could apply to either link in order to add the pictures that show in detail the wrapping process.Wrapped LinkA wrapped link differs to an unwrapped link in that instead of the wire curving round and stopping at the bend in the wire, it instead continues and wraps around the wire just below your loop. Its slightly more fiddly but does produce a better result and is also the most basic form of wire-wrapping - a technique that can produce some spectacular jewellery. For a wrapped link I would usually use 22 or 24 gauge dead soft wire, although half hard will work fine too. If you use dead soft, you may like also use nylon jaw pliers in addition to the tools mentioned above. I'll explain why at the relevant point in the instructions.Cut your piece of wire straight across at right angles to the wire (so
the end is flat - note I used a scrap for demonstrating so my ends
aren't flat!)Make a right angle 2cm from the end of your wire using flat nose pliers.Hold your wire with your round nose pliers right next to the joint on the shorter lengthUse flat nose pliers (or your fingers initially) to guide the wire around your round nose pliers in a loop. You should end up with a loop that has a short length of wire sticking out in the direction of your original right angle.Hold your loop firmly with your round nose pliers in one hand, and with the other hand use your chain nose pliers to wrap the excess wire in a close fitting spiral around the stem underneath your loop.Use your wire cutters to cut off the excess wire as close as you can get to the stem without nicking it. You may like to then use the very ends of your chain nose pliers to pinch the end of your wire to push it closer to the stem.You now have a length of wire with a wrapped loop at one end. Turn it upside down (so the loop is at the bottom) and add your beads.Look at how much space you used wrapping under your first loop. You want to allow this much space between the final bead and the right angle bend for your second end loop (so your link looks even and balanced). Its probably about 1-2mm. Make a right angle bend, allowing for this gap and pointing in the same direction as the first. Follow the same procedure as for your first loop wrapping the excess wire around the stem and snug up to the end bead. Pinch with chain nose pliers and trim if needed.You may find your loops aren't facing the same direction. Grip each
loop in flat nose pliers (or flat and chain nose - personally I use two
flat) and twist so they're level. You now have a beaded wrapped link! Now is the time for those nylon jaw pliers mentioned above. You need to use them to squeeze around each of your loops. This has the effect of hardening the wire, making it less likely to deform.Finally - you can use headpins instead of plain wire for making dangles or earring drops - when doing this, your 'head' end of your headpin takes the place of your first loop - so you just add your beads to the headpin, and finish it with the second loop from the instructions.Note from the AuthorI
hope you found this useful. I'm writing new guides all the time so
don't forget to sign up for my jewellery making techniques newsletter
(link for newsletter signup is at the top of any page inmy eBay shop
). I do write these free of charge, for the benefit of anyone who
wishes to read them, however should you feel like checking out my ebay
shop next time you're buying jewellery making supplies, it would be
very much appreciated!Many thanks,StephExplanation of Difficulty LevelsI
rate my designs by four difficulty levels for non-soldering or sawing
jewellery making. They're rated by a number of factors including time
taken to make, whether you need to make some of your own components and
whether they need basic tools or 'specialist' tools. 1. Beginner - Anyone should be able to manage this, even if you've never held a pair of jewellery pliers in your life.
2. Quick

shill bidding scam on wholesale shoes

After contacting Ebay.UK5 times about a shill bidding scam

PS2 Network Access Disk

I have noticed that there are a few ebay members that have been trying to pass off PS2 network access disks off as a product that costs money . This disk is needed to access the online gaming features available for Playstation 2 owners and you can get it free by visting the website at the bottom of this pageand completing the instructions listed there. WARNING : Anyone that tries to sell you a disk that is called a PS2 Network Access Disk is trying to con you !! I haven't seen anyone actually buy this product but im sure that there have been people who have.

Here is the website that you need to visit in order to get you access disk, you can copy and paste it into your browser

ps2registration.com , make sure you put the www. before it

If you already have a PS2 then all you have to do is register withthe website and they will send you the Network Access Disk. There areeasy-to-followinstructions on the site so i won't waste your time repeating what they say.

Do you need a doppler, to buy or not to buy?

Hello, and congratulations on your pregnancy! Lets talk about doppler. Do you need one? What to buy, and what you should look at when buying?

I have never needed a doppler in my first pregnancy, but I was very excited to hear my future baby- so I have bought myself a Bebe Sounds monitor as it is completely safe - it amplifies sounds from your womb( not using any ultrasound). With this device you canhear what is happening inside you and in later pregnancy you can even hear baby heart beats, it also makes you able to hear kicks and baby noises like hiccups and placenta noise.You can also use it in reverse way and talk to your baby or play music( it is real fun if you have an older child it makes the unborn baby real to older child and creates a real bond with them). You can also involve your partner to such communications, I find such family activities very useful.

If you arefirst time motherI would rather recomend you such listener - there are few like this on the market

Summer prenatal listener

Bebe Sounds prenatal listener

In a second pregnancy I was always on a move ,I was unable to visit midwifes as often as I wanted,I decided tobuy ultrasound doppler, sowhen I had a need of reassuarance and baby was quietI was not rushing to the hospital just for the sake of it.

It was very helpful when we had a 14 hour flight and my baby went very very quiet for a while, so I have monitored it in the airplane (it was asleep). I was happy to knowbaby wasdoing well.

REMEMBER ! You need to know that ULTRASOUNDDoppler is not intend to replace your Midwife or Qualified doctor, but it is to give you possibility to hear your baby when you have no chance of see a one.

You can use it only from10 weeks of your pregnancy and withsome doppler even later from 12-14 weeks (read the manual).

If you are not sure if you need a doppler then better not to buy it at all, you will hear you baby heartbeating in the antenatal visits.

Remember, that wrong use of monitor may put you into stress if you are not using it corectly you may even take the wrong readings.However if you are planing to have more than one child, and you know for sure that you need a doppler and you know how it is working and you have experience on how to use it then here is some useful info about what to buy:There are two types of FHM dopplers-just heart doppler to listen a heart beats but without digital display they are good andless expensive then others - usually price is below 60 poundsor around this amount such models are :BF 500BF500C-heart doppler with a heart rate display LCD screen they are more expensive and prices start from 65 pounds, also you can have a bargain if you buy used one:BF500 , BF 500 Babysonic - Ultrasonic Fetal DopplerPersonal advise -If you want to have a good investment then better to buy with digital heart rate display monitor , but then again, be careful as if you are not using it correctly you will not be able to monitor your baby and wrong data will be displayed, so make sure you know how to use it ( read the manual, or ask a midvife to comment when she is using hers, she usually tells you what is she doing when she is measuring babies heart rate).If you want just to have a doppler for amusement orto keep your mind quiet, then simpleamplifier-heart listener is for you - Summer Prenatal Listener, Bebe sounds Listener, or simple brief models such as -BF500 or HiBEBE or Angelsounds fetal monitor-

Important note -If buying used monitors make sure you buying clean and working machine, with manufacturer manual or instruction( as some dopplers you can only use from sertain weeks of pregnancy)

Never buy a broken machines or faulty or repaired not by the manufacturer , faulty machine may harm your baby by using unsafe ultrawaves.Never buy a dopler without a manual!

All the best in your pregnancy hope you will never need a doppler.

Please do not forget to Vote for this guide, so others can see it! Thank you

cheap prom/wedding/ball gowns

please beware of very cheap gowns from ebay sellers with shops,they are often from china and are VERY poorly made,cheap looking and not worth risking anybody losing money on,and ruining your day and budget.

by my experience i can also tell you thatcommunication with theses shops are very poor and considerably "dodgy" i had to send a dress back to a so-called shop where the address they gave me does not even exist!! and was told the post office were at fault!! even thoughthe lady behind the counter double checked it on the computer and it really did not exist!!

please please be very vigile when buying your dress,the saying goes,buy cheap,buy twice,if it seems to cheap to be true,then it probably is!!!!

PALLETS OF USED MOBILES!!! CHEAP, CHEAP, CHEAP

Hi FRIENDS!!!
I am writing to tell you about sellers sellingWHOLESALE MOBILE PHONES either on PALLETS or inHUGE QUANTITIES on eBAY!!!
Before entering a bid on Pallets of MOBILES and/or HUGE Quantities, please make further enquiries before doing anything. I have noticed a few CLEVERLEY designed AD's for these. These people offering you these mobiles are there to make money for themselves, try to read between the lines.
REMEMBER We are all on eBAY to either get a BARGAIN or MAKE A PROFIT, usually the latter for these people.
Let me tell you about my experience:
A few weeks ago I saw an Ad for 350 Mixed Mobiles for sale, the BUY IT NOW PRICE was 399.99 and the bidding itself was starting from 99p, (I am sorry I cannot tell you theI.D of this seller because it is going to court soI have to be careful).A BARGAIN I hear you say!!!
NO!!!
Firstly these people quite KNOWINGLY...FORGET to tell you that these mobiles are:
1. Used CRAP usually thrown away by people that you can pick up FREE from any DUMP site (honestly)!!
2. Come WITHOUT batteries and BACKS and cracked or without screens.
3. The 399.99 BUY IT NOW price is EXCLUDING V.A.T (which should not be applied in the first place, because these are used goods). So FINAL price will be around 680.00 inclusive of delivery!!!
4. The photo's they show you are usually hand picked mobile phones from the lot they will sell you or they won't be in the lot at all!!
OR
The pic's are taken from so far away, it is hard to tell what you will be getting exactly.
5. These phones are over 20 years old. You WILL get some that are 5 years or so old (roughly about 20 of them)
6. Read the small print in their ad because they usually tell you in the small print that you might NOT get what is photographed because of their stock changing so rapidly!!!
This of-course is a LOAD OF RUBBISH like their Mobile Phones and they add this small print so that they are covered with ebay!!!
So this, is usually RUBBISH they are selling you. I was really LUCKY because I paid via CREDIT CARD and I was able to STOP the payment before they had a chance to get it. And I was LUCKYI paid for NEXT DAY DELIVERY. These phones are so RUBBISH that when I stopped payment the seller did not bother to collect his pallet back off me!!!
PLEASE MY FELLOW EBAYERS be very careful. IF IT IS TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE IT USUALLY IS!!!
To make sure you don't get caught out do the following:
1. Find out about PAST sales. Go to the sellers feedback and email some buyers to see what they think and their experience with the seller!!!
2. If you cannot e-mail or find anyone that has purchased the same goods off the seller then try to find out as much as you can about the company or the seller!!!
3. E-mail the seller with as many questions as you can, for your own piece of mind!!!. Don't forget it's your money and you are entitled to ask anything.
4. If you suspect anything in their reply e-mail, or they don't give you the information you requested then DON'T BUY IT!!
5. If the seller says things like; "Our stock changes so quickly, I cannot tell you what you will get exactly!!" or "We cannot give you a list of what you are buying EXACTLY!!" then be very AWARE!!
6. Ask the seller if you can view the LOT before you buy or bid. If the answer is "NO" then its a suspect sale.
7. Ask if you can collect personally and pay C.O.D (cash on delivery).
8. If seller DOES NOT accept PAYPAL then beware.
So my friends REMEMBER the GOLDEN RULE, you are the buyer and you have every right to question anything before you part with your money!!!
PLEASE VOTE FOR THIS SO THAT ALOT OF PEOPLE CAN READ THIS AND CAN DO ALL THE THINGS I HAVE LISTED BEFORE THEY GET RIPPED OFF. WE ARE ALL HERE TO BAG A BARGAIN AND NO-ONE HAS THE RIGHT TO BE CONNED!!!
Thanks

Nintendo Wii Fit Review

The hit combination of Wii Sports and the Wii Remote brought golf
swings and tennis serves into people's homes. Now Nintendo turns the
living room into a fitness center for the whole family with Wii Fit and
the Wii Balance Board. With Wii Fit, family members will have fun
getting a "core" workout, and talking about and comparing their results
and progress on a new Wii Fit channel on the Wii Menu.

The Wii balance board has a weight limit of 136kg so most people can use it!!

Wii Fit Features:

Get Wii'lly fit! Lean to block soccer balls, swivel
hips to power hoop twirls or balance to hold the perfect yoga pose. As
Wii Fit users stand on the Wii Balance Board, included with Wii Fit,
their body's overall balance is tied to the game in a way they've never
experienced before.

Use the Wii Balance Board for daily Wii Fit tests: Tests in Wii Fit evaluate two key measures that a household can track via progress charts:

Body Mass Index (BMI): A weight evaluation based on a ratio of weight to height.
Wii Fit Age:
The Wii Fit Age is measured by factoring the user's BMI reading,
testing the Wii Fit user's center of gravity and conducting quick
balance tests.

Over 40 types of training activities: Wii Fit is designed to appeal to all members of a household. Training falls into four fitness categories:

Aerobic Exercise: Wii Fit's 10-minute exercises are designed to get the

heart pumping.Muscle Conditioning: Wii Fit features controlled motions using arms,

legs and other body parts.Yoga Poses: Classic poses in Wii Fit focus on balance and

stretching.Balance Games: Wii Fit features fun activities, such as ski jumping

and heading soccer balls, that challenge the Wii Fit player's overall body balance.Overall, the Wii Fit is the perfect way to help lose weight, get active and truly make 'strides' towards fitness.It is seen as the bridge between gaming and a good healty lifestyle!! I cannot recommend it enough!!You can now preorder the Wii Fit in most places, selling at 69.99 it does present value for money.Overall 9/10Hope this helps :)

Cost of taxing LPG vehicles

Before you purchase an LPG vehicle look carefully at the date it was first registered. Yes, it's true that LPG vehicles are MUCH cheaper to tax than petrol and diesel vehicles BUT ONLY IF FIRST REGISTERED AFTER 1ST MARCH 2001. I own a 1.6 dual-fuel Astra first registered 5 weeks before that date and it costs exactly the same as a petrol or diesel model which is 185 per annum.

Also even though your LPG vehicle will allow you to travel in the London Congestion Charging zone without paying the daily charge you have to register your car first which costs 10 AND send in a certificate of conversion. You can obtain this (or at least I did) from the manufacturer if you own an Astra which was converted by Vauxhall, for aftermarket conversions you have to get this from the company which converted the vehicle.

That said, I'm THRILLED with my LPG car, especially when I refuel (and there are many petrol stations throughout the UK who stock LPG - finding one has never been a problem, you can even download LPG Forecourt POI files for your SatNav).

I thoroughly recommend owning an LPG vehicle and when I have to change my car I'll be looking for another dual-fuel Astra.

FILA BJ SETTANTA - HOW TO SPOT A FAKE - GUIDE WITH PICS

Welcome to another

Balooka Heights

"Fake or Not Guide"

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I bet you thought you'd never see the day that the con-men would make a fake Fila Settanta, but they have!

There are countless fakeFila Settantason eBay at the moment andit seems they aregrowing in numbers.

I've got tired of reporting them to eBay so I though that it's time to put pen to paper and cut out the middle man, by informing the buyers of what to look out for.

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Here are two examples of fake Fila Settantas:

There are loads of these on eBay now, mostly from sellers from HONG KONG and GERMANY.

The first two FAKESwent foraround 150 each, as nobody knew they were fake!

They are now being sold for as low as 60!

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Those who know about Fila Settantas will realise that the MK1s are now very hard to find and that a good one will go for around 150 on eBay.

Please don't get fooled by the fakers!

_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

If you found this helpful, then Click YES - By"Was this guide helpful?"

So that it will get rated higher and more people will be able to see it and learn how to spot a fake..!

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Soundware Guide to Choosing Monitor Speakers

Soundware Beginners Guide to......SpeakersEven if you've made a professional quality recording on your computer, the way it's mixed can make or break it as a finished track. To mix properly, we need to be sure that what we hear through the speakers is as accurate a representation of the actual sound as possible, so that the mix we hear through our speakers will sound good on as many different sound systems as possible. A good pair of studio monitors is essential to this.The way speakers are positioned can also have a big impact on the way we perceive sound coming from them.There are many different types of speakers to choose from. If you're not sure which is suitable for your requirements, please contact us and we'll do our best to help.View Monitor Speakers in our shop... How Speakers WorkThe theory upon which all loudspeakers are based is very simple. To make a speaker, the electrical current from a hi-fi or amplifier is passed through a wire coil, attached to a diaphragm and with a magnet fixed within the coil. The current in the coil within the magnetic field causes the coil to move (because of the Motor Effect), which causes the diaphragm to move at the same frequency as the original sound vibrations. As the diaphragm moves, it will cause the air around it to vibrate as well, and will transmit sound waves identical (in a perfect world in reality there is always a certain amount of electrical interference, resistance etc. which affects the resulting sound) to the original sound waves. A simple loudspeakerHowever, it's difficult to make a single speaker cone produce an accurate representation of the entire sound spectrum - so most speakers use two cones (or "drivers"), a "tweeter" for high frequencies and a "woofer" for low frequencies. The point at which the low and high frequencies are split (usually around 2kHz) is called the crossover frequency. Some high-end studio monitors refine this technique even further and use three or more drivers.Speaker PositioningThe placement of speakers in a room can have a huge effect on the sound they produce, so it's important to position your monitor speakers properly to get the most accurate reproduction of your mixes. Their placement in relation to the listener is also important, as the sound of a speaker changes depending on where it is in relation to the listener.It's best to place your speakers so that they're sitting on two points of an imaginary equilateral triangle (the length of the sides can vary, although five to six feet is considered ideal) - the third point of which should be your head when you're listening to the speakers. This placement gives the most accurate reproduction of the stereo field. Set the height so that the tweeter cone is level with your ears - since high frequencies are most easily distorted by being "off-axis", it's best to be in line with the high frequency driver. Turn the speakers so that they're pointing inwards slightly, for the same reason. Always place your speakers upright unless they are specifically designed to be placed on their sides - this can lead to phase problems.Placement of speakers within a room can vary depending on their design - some benefit from being placed against a wall, and some need to be well away from walls in a free space. Try to avoid placing speakers in corners, though - this can make the bass frequencies sound boomy. Speaker stands are useful as they can prevent resonances from desks or cabinets - but wherever you place your speakers, make sure that they're firmly fixed in place to prevent vibrations.When you think your speakers are correctly placed, use them to listen to some commercially-produced music. Does the mix sound balanced? Is the bass or mid range coming through too strongly, or not strongly enough? If so, look at your placement again, and consider changing it to combat this. If you continuously run into problems, consider looking into some form of acoustic treatment for the room you're mixing in - it may be that the shape of the room is affecting the sound.Types of Speakers:PassiveAudio signals sent to speakers will always need amplified to an appropriate level before they are sent to the speaker drivers. In passive crossover monitors, the speaker accepts its input from a separate external amplifier, splits the signal into high and low frequencies and distributes it to the drivers.Examples of Passive Monitors:Behringer 1C Passive MonitorsView Monitor Speakers in our shop... PoweredPassive monitor speakers can lose sound quality because of the length of wire connecting the amplifier to the speakers. A way of avoiding this is by using powered speakers. These have their own inbuilt amplifiers and do not need external amplification. Because of this the quality of the sound signal is maintained, as it does not have to pass through as much wire and circuitry to reach the drivers.Examples of Powered Monitors:Yamaha MSP3M-Audio Studio Pro 4View Monitor Speakers in our shop... ActiveBoth passive and powered speakers split the signal after it has been amplified. Active speakers work differently, by using electronic circuitry to split the frequency at line level and then feeding the split signals into individual amplifiers, which then connect to the drivers. The active electronics can split the signal much more accurately, and can incorporate equalisation features to help match speakers to a room's characteristics. Again, active speakers are self-contained and need no external amplification.Examples of Active Monitors:Samson Resolv 50aFostex PM0.4View Monitor Speakers in our shop...

USA American Pay As You Go Sim Cards for use in the US.

USA American Pay As You Go Sim Cards for use in the US.

If your planing on a trip to USAand you wish to take your mobile phone then aUSA pay as you go sim card can save you a fortune in in calls and texts.

Some good reasons to get a Australian sim card 1, AllUSA sim cards havecheap incoming calls and texts while in the USA. 2, You will getUSA mobile number which is also same as a landline number for friends who are in USA with you. 3, Calls back to your own country will be cheaper. 4, You can add credit by topping up from shops all over the USA.

The main USA networkis T-Mobile

You will need a unlocked mobile phone that hasGSM 1900 bands.

Unlocked - Means the mobile is unlocked to other networks. Say your phone is locked to UK O2 this means you cant use any other sim card then a UK O2 sim card. If your phone is unlocked this means you can use more than one network sim card on your phone. Getting your phone unlocked is easy some times free. Most phones can be unlocked for a small fee. A lot phones come unlocked. Easy way to find out if your phone is unlocked or locked is try a O2 sim card and a Vodafone(U can try this with any networks) sim card in your phone and if thay both work then your phone is unlocked if thay dont then your phone is locked.

Lots ofmobiles can be unlocked for free. Just about every mobile phone can be unlocked for a price.

If you need any more help or info please contact me i be happy to help.

Check out Experimentalists my ebay store for global sim cards RTW travel

Maclaren Techno What They Don't Mention About Harness

I recently had an unfortunate experience with my brand new Techno Classic Pushchair.

Myone year old son fell asleep on the way home from the shops so when I got home I left him asleep in the garden at the back door.

He is not a huge child and was fully harnessed into the pushchair with the fitted 5 point harness.

Completely asleep he must have moved a bit and the whole thing tipped backwards onto my concrete path. Leaving my poor baby with his legs up in the air and his head on the path.

Luckily he wasn't seriously hurt apart from a bad bump to the head and a big shock, as I was very close by to get him out and see to him straight away.

Now likeI say hes not particulary large for his age and was positioned properly in the pushchair and yet it had still unbalanced so easily.

I took the pushchair back to the shop to complain about the balance issue and the retailer sent it back to Maclaren who conducted tests on it. They refused to comment on whether it was an isolated incident caused by a fault on that individual buggy or whether it was a design fault. But they issued a full refund to me without so much as an apology or explanation. Which to me implies theres a problem!

Meanwhile, the shop owner pointed out to me that Maclaren and other buggy manufacturers can cover themselves from any come back after accidents like this by a clause used in their instruction books.

It states that a child should always be strapped in with the harness provided AND with a seperate D-Ring type Reins harness attached to the rings provided on the pushchair. And that it is of course the carer's responsibilty to ensure this is done.

Now you tell me why this is not written in big red writing on all prams?!? And why do they provide a 5 point harness is they openly admit in the small print that it is not sufficiently safe for our precious little ones.

I hope this warning is of some help to you all and prevents this happening to any other sleeping babies.

XBOX System faulty or damaged. Contact us we can help

Ok if your XBOX system is faulty or damaged or maybe it needs the drive upgrading just contact us we will do our best to help.

First please do the following.

Step 1 : If you have trouble playing discs then use a DVD lense cleaner once completed try all media discs DVD/CDs

Step 2 : Use a vacum cleaner hose and clean all the vents mainly the back

Step 3 : Write down the error code at the top left if any, usually displayed when switching on xbox - see below:-

0 - any - No error (duh)1 - bootldr - Unknown exactly, something to do with checking the motherboard

2 - bootldr - Eeprom check failed

3 - bootldr - ??/not used

4 - bootldr - Ram check failed

5 - kernel - HDD not locked (retail bioses require the hd to be locked)

6 - kernel - Cannot unlock HDD

7 - kernel - HDD timeout

8 - kernel - No HDD found

9 - kernel - HDD parameters (PIO/DMA/or size {debug}, certain size minimum is required for debug)

10 - kernel - DVD timeout

11 - kernel - No DVD Founnd

12 - kernel - DVD parameters (PIO/DMA)

13 - kernel - Dashboard launch fail (due to missing/bad key, or anything else that would prevent it from running) and the dashboard didn't specify why it failed.

14 - dashboard - Error loading dashboard (dashboard generic error)

15 - - ??/not used

16 - dashboard - Other files to do with dashboard / dashboard settings (specific dashboard error)

17 - - ??/not used

18 - - ??/not used

19 - - ??/not used

20 - kernel - The dashboard was attempted to load and failed; It was a cold boot, and the dashboard didn't specify why it failed, but it (for some reason) needed to be noted that the dvd passed the challenge/response authentication

21 - anywhere - This error says that the machine was booted to display a error, basically someone told the machine to reboot (or launch a xbe) with this flag, and the error code just means its been rebooted by the flag

In closing:

21 was the highest number I could find, I dont think anynthing is past that. And for the unknown ones, I couldn't find anyreference to them at all, I don't believe they are used

If all else fails contact us and we will provide free techincal support by messenger usually online till 12 midnight 7 days a week

Hope this helps

Regards

GameOva

Tips For Using SCREW in AWNING PEGS

Tips For Using SCREW in AWNING PEGS

I thought it might be useful to other caravanners and campers to write this guide to my routine for setting up and packing away a caravan awning using the * SCREW AWNING PEGS *

First question is: how many screw in pegs should I buy? The answer will not be the same for everyone, obviously. However, for our personal use, I need 14 pegs for my small porch awning, 16 pegs for my sun canopy awning, 24 pegs for my full awning and 30 pegs for my full awning with annex. I also useanother 6 pegs for pegging down our Satellite Dish Tripod. Obviously, the larger the awning, the more pegs you will need.

Second question is: which drill will I need? You will need a good quality battery drill with a powerful battery and preferably with a spare battery and mains charger. For our personal use, I bought a good quality, fully charged and reliable battery drill with a 24 volt battery and I always carry a spare battery and mains fast charger, just in case I run out of power before I'm finished pegging out. This can happen, specially in the winter time when putting up a large awning, asmost batteries run down quicker in the cold weather. However, for most winter use, I only use a porch awning, so one battery is usually enough.

If on a campsite pitch with an electric hook up, it is possible to use a mains powered drill, via a RCD for safety.

All drill typesshould only be used on drill mode only and NOT hammer mode as hammer mode will damage the self drilling point of the peg.

I usually find it best to set the drill to *Low* speed for pegging out,as the peg threads seem to bite into the ground easier, prevents over drilling whichmeans the pegs are held infirmer. For removing the pegs from the ground, I set the drill to high speed for no other reason that it is a bit quicker.

Into the drill chuck, I fit the 13mm hexagon socket mounted on a driver shaft and tighten the chuck.

I insert the peg's hexagonhead firmly into the driver socket (attached into the drill chuck) and put it through a washer, then through the rubber ladder strap, attached to the awning.

Holding the peg loosely by the washer between two fingers (allowing the peg to rotate freely in the washer) I then apply pressure to the peg through the drill, pressinginto the ground at an angle of /- 30 degrees, from top dead centre and start to drill the peg home, into the ground, until the peg is nearly home, (about two inches away from fullydrilled) and then stop drilling.

At this point, it is important to hold onto the rubber ladder strap (or guy rope), to stop it winding itself around the peg shaft, then finallydrill home the final couple of inches, until the peg head is as flush to the ground as possible.The above routine works for me on most ground conditions. Usually it takes me literally just a second to drill in each peg and about the same time to remove them again!

Sometimes, for very hard ground, I adjust my technique and do the following.

When pegging down into very hard ground, i.e., some hard standings, I drill the peg into the ground absolutelyvertically and straight down, as sometimes it is not possible to penetrate hard ground substrates at an angle. Also, I find I have to apply a bit more pressure to the drill, forthe peg to bite in and drill through some harder substrates.

I have used the same pegs now since 2004,they are even my original and very first set,and I have NEVER come across a grass or hard standing pitch that these pegs couldn't be effectively used on!

To remove the pegs from the ground, I do the following:

When taking the pegs back out again, by reversing drilling, I find it is best to apply a little pressure to the drill whilst pulling the rubber ladder strap slightly and then reverse drilling the pegs back out again.

Easy peasy! Job done!

Top Tip: Make sure your battery drill is charged and you actually remember to take it away with you! First time out with these pegs - I forgot to take the drill!

........and don't forget to take the battery charger.

Here's a recent picture of our awning, pegged down using drill in awning pegs. Very neat, flush to the groundand held in firm for the duration of our whole stay on site.